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 Post subject: Painted On Insignia
PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 6:51 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 23, 2005 5:26 pm
Posts: 384
Location: Magnolia, Texas
What suggestions does anyone have for spray (air brushed) applied insignia. I just finished applying wing stars on my F4F-4 and plan to move on to the fuselage. It's great to a point (with some touch-up to do) and it offers a lot of realism. The decals normally furnished with the kit cover up such things as rivets and seams and look wrong. My first attempt was passable but more attention is required. I used a laser printer and a couple of pages of stick on envelope labels for stencils. I cut them out with an Exacto knife...any ideas...Tom


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 10:57 pm 
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Tom, one of the better and easier things to try is a "setting solution". Its works great on newer model kits. If its an older kit, it really doesnt work as well on the older decals. Its a two part solution, a solvent & a setting. This process sort of melts the decal (if you will) and can achieve that painted on look. It will suck the decal down around the rivets and panel lines.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 04, 2006 11:40 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 03, 2004 10:46 am
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Location: Lee's Summit, Missouri
I have to agree...painting your insignias on might be more trouble than it's worth. Using a setting solution provides that "painted on" look without the extra effort (when done correctly). Check out the more popular modeling sites like:
http://www.modelingmadness.com
http://www.hyperscale.com
http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com

Many guys use Micro Sol or Micro Set, but I have had alot of luck with Future floor wax. I typically finish my model with flat paints. I then shoot the model with a liberal coating of Future floor wax. I apply the decals by soaking them in a solution of warm water with a couple of drops of dishwashing liquid soap. I hand brush Future floor wax on the surface where the decal will be applied, then I apply the decal. When the decal is positioned correctly (you want to do this as quickly as possible) I brush the top of the decal with more future floor wax, making sure to push out all visible air bubbles while trying not to disturb the decal's position. I then dab any excess wax or water with a small piece of paper towel. Within a few minutes, the decal may seem to distort or wrinkle, but be patient. As the wax begins to cure the decal will settle into all details very hard, and it will take on the "painted on" look.

Give the wax at least 12 hours to cure before applying another coat of gloss for flat.

Here are a few of my recent builds, all using Future floor wax, no setting solutions. (All 1/48 scale)

Tamiya's J2M3 Jack kit decals (15 plus years old)
Image

Hasegawa's P-40N Warhawk Superscale decals
Image

Hasegawa's P-51K Mustang (built as P-51D) Superscale decals
Image

Hasegawa's F4U-5 Corsair 'Reserve' kit decals
Image

Monogram's P-47D Thunderbolt Superscale decals
Image

Heller's AU-1 Corsair (CRAP KIT!) Victory Productions decals
Image

I've been pretty happy with the results....A few have not turned out as expected, but that was due to my inexperience, not a flaw in the method.

Hope this is helpful,
Dante

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2006 7:07 am 
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Joined: Mon May 23, 2005 5:26 pm
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Location: Magnolia, Texas
Many thanks to you both...I wish I had posted this question a month ago now. It would have saved me a lot of trouble. I'm pretty well stuck with painting at least the stars unless I can find some replacement decals at the hobby shop. I'm going to get the setting solution to use on the numbers and the other smaller decals which I have yet to apply...The Future floor wax procedure sounds interesting. I'll try it on a future build.

Nice pictures and workmanship DanteC

Thanks again,
Tom


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2006 8:52 am 
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I agree with the guys that Future is terrific as a setting solution, as well as being easy to find and economical. And probably 99% of advanced modelers agree that with Future or setting solution and a certain degree of skill, decals can look so good that painting markings is not worth the trouble.

However, with skill and the right equipment, painted markings can look better than even the best-applied decal. With paint you can avoid persistent issues that occur with decals -- not only adhesion, but yellowing over time; lack of opacity, especially in white decals over a dark surface; misaligned and out-of-register decals; and just plain inaccuracy. Plus, paint has the additional benefit that you can do any subject you want, and you have the satisfaction of knowing that one of the most visible and impressive parts of your model was done by yourself and not spoon-fed to you by a decal manufacturer. So I encourage you to keep playing with paint and seeing whether you like it. Personally I use a mix of the two, and probably my decals look better than my painted markings yet still I get more satisfaction out of the latter.

August


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2006 10:25 am 
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Location: Lee's Summit, Missouri
Tom Crawford wrote:
I wish I had posted this question a month ago now. It would have saved me a lot of trouble. I'm pretty well stuck with painting at least the stars unless I can find some replacement decals at the hobby shop.


Several of the aftermarket decal companies also offer replacement insignias for basically any theatre of operation. You might check your local hobby store, the net, or ebay for national insignia decals.

Dante

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