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Classic Wings Magazine Luftwaffe Resource Center WWII Naval Aviation Research Pacific
Final Cut-The Post War B-17 Flying Fortress and Survivors - 5th Edition


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 8:18 pm 
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 4:06 pm 
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Nice job. After seeing this I'm going to have a crack at making these cover plates for the door sills on my Auster. (They are upside down here)
Image

You can just see them in place in each door sill (red on the angled part) They are quite soft and hope to try making them using your method (rivet gun attachment)
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 8:38 pm 
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Very cool. Like to see pictures of the short bend and flanges to see how they did it originally.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 8:47 pm 
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So we started walking down the road of assembly, finally. Got the clips back after heat treating yesterday, late so took from the ice chest and put in the freezer overnight. Happy to find no noticeable distortion from the process.

Did etch prep and alodine, then squoze some rivets.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2014 1:22 am 
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avenger2504 wrote:
You can just see them in place in each door sill (red on the angled part) They are quite soft and hope to try making them using your method (rivet gun attachment)

www.tinmantech.com has all that flow forming stuff. Ask for a catalog (& hide your credit card until you calm down a bit after reading it) :)

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 8:31 pm 
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More vane assembly work today. The upper and lower plates needed to be countersunk.

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The clips mount the vanes to the upper and lower plates. They have been heat treated and alodined for corrosion resistance and now are riveted to each vane.

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Rivet squeezin...

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Next, flush riveting to finish these assemblies.

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and yes, I changed the materials to mahogany and teak. 8)

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 17, 2014 8:50 pm 
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I have hands on experience with those particular parts. That is simply a work of art.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 9:07 am 
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Cherrybomber13 wrote:
I have hands on experience with those particular parts. That is simply a work of art.


I couldn't agree more Andrew so I'm gonna brag on him a little bit. Scott posseses a rare skill set combining engineering, fabrication, artistry, mechanics and MacGiver. He is humble and modest about his work but is easily among the best working in warbird restoration. He does other amazing work in power sports, automotive and industrial art. My jet bar and lounge is proof of that! Keep the updates coming Scott, this is an awesome thread!


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 8:01 pm 
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This is one of my favorite threads right now. Keep up the good work.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 18, 2014 9:45 pm 
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So, for the first time in years, a new set of vanes sits in its new home, happy, happy.

Image


Rivet squeezing fingers are sore though, getting old I guess...not! 8)

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 8:32 pm 
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Did some localized Alodine application on the partition that divides oil cooler air from intake air. Right now, only addressing the doubler that is needed on the flange. Masked it off with blue painter's tape.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 8:54 pm 
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Time to start laughing at me and my 3D machining. :D It's ok, I can take it.

So, part of the LH partition has a formed recess to allow access to the oil cooler drain plug, clearance at least. I did a concept tool to see if what I wanted to flow form would work. It did but I didn't have the correct contour. Again, PVC plate for the form.

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Now, having the complete set of drawings, I was able to obtain the cross section view and create a template.

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I lay out a grid and pick up the approximate center of the radius and then do the same on 1" PVC plate.

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Next, I detail the lay out a little more and then using the template, calculate the depth of the contour at each intersection. I will then drill using a #40 drill bit to the depth I calculated.

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Here is where the "Mill" comes in. I will cut down to the drill hole stopping points, or close and then carefully finish the contour. I will then be able to make a blank and flow form the piece. This is only a part of the piece though and I'll get to the rest as we move forward. This, I think will be the easiest. The other half of this same piece involves 90 degree bent flange and a reverse curve... :?

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 10:44 pm 
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What are the practical limitations of flow forming? Could you flow form something as large and involved as a nosebowl, if you had a form?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 11:45 pm 
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Kyleb, a total nose bowl would be difficult I think. Think of flow forming as stamping or deep drawing on a smaller scale. For a nose bowl, there are many other more efficient ways to manufacture, hammer, English wheel, etc. Nose bowls have many sub-structures incorporated so I think to make a nose bowl for an L bird, you need a wooden buck, Pulmax/English wheel, gas welding, and lots of love.

For me, flow forming with a rivet gun, efficiently replaces a whole lot of hammering. Using a form block, dish, mold or the like doesn't change the metal work, more the process. There are so many ways to approach a form. Free dish work with a hammer and shot bag, free Pulmax work, English wheel, etc. Much of flow form dishing involves clamping and stretching.

So, I guess, flow forming is another technique in your tool box, like another hammer. You choose the method to best get the results you want. Make sense? :?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2014 10:41 am 
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Hi Scott,

I just wanted to take a moment and reiterate that this is one of my favorite threads. Thank your for taking the time to show your work, explain what your doing and answering questions. Its threads like this that show just how great the WIX community is. These are skills and knowledge that is not easily learned and if not shared will be lost. By passing it along we can help insure that future generations will know what warbirds are because they will still exist.

Scott, if you would PM me an address and your t-shirt size I would be honored if you would let me send you a WIX t-shirt!

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This site is brought to you with the support of members like you. If you find this site to be of value to you,
consider supporting this forum and the Warbirds Resource Group with a VOLUNTARY subscription
For as little as $2/month you can help ($2 x 12 = $24/year, less than most magazine subscriptions)
So If you like it here, and want to see it grow, consider helping out.
And if your doing your holiday shopping on Amazon, consider using the Amazon links on the site to start your shopping, it doesn't cost you anything and helps the site out.
Thanks to everyone who has so generously supported the site. We really do appreciate it.
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