Canopy rollers

Ollie · **Posted:** Sun Feb 24, 2013 1:41 pm

I'm looking for a complete set of canopy rollers for my Harvard.

Do you have any leads?

Taylor Stevenson · **Posted:** Sun Feb 24, 2013 6:54 pm

Call Banaire and see if they're still selling these:
http://banaire.com/canopyenclosure.html

I know they are closing their doors soon, so you may want to call them ASAP.

Obviously, Lance should have them as well.

Good luck!

Old Shep · **Joined:** Thu Jun 09, 2005 5:49 pm **Posts:** 219

Banaire is shut down: my fax order came back with a note saying they weren't filling any more orders (and I was ordering canopy rollers too)....Lance has them.

Old Shep

Taylor Stevenson · **Posted:** Mon Feb 25, 2013 12:15 am

Thanks for the heads-up, Bill... I figured they'd be cutting off orders pretty soon... So much for getting one last pair of their home-made hub caps!

T

Ollie · **Posted:** Mon Feb 25, 2013 9:40 am

Thanks guys.

Mustanger55 · **Posted:** Tue May 28, 2013 2:29 pm

Hi All,

A dumb question from a newbie. Are the canopy rollers the same throughout the AT-6 series?

I'm starting a static restoration of an AT-6B and the canopies are pretty sticky. Looked at the T-6G parts catalog and I'm assuming I need 2 sets of 8 rollers for the two sliding canopies, if these are the same for the B.

Looks like Lance is about the only source out there, right?

http://p51h.home.comcast.net/~p51h/at6b/index.htm

The Inspector · **Posted:** Tue May 28, 2013 3:56 pm

Especially in aviation, the only dumb question is the one you were too dumb not to ask. You'll aquire equal amounts of knowledge busting your knuckles as you will on the 'jungle telegraph' asking questions.
I never met anyone who had become 'all knowing, all seeing' after being clubbed with the knowledge stick. Dig, dig, dig, use a backhoe, use a desert spoon, use tweezers but keep digging-I used to ask newbie mechanic prospects 'Who hates to read?' I'd then tell the class 'if you don't like reading, you are in the wrong business since 80% of your time will be spent in manuals, IPC's, SRM's, or on drawings riding a readser/printer like it was a bucking bronco'.
I may not have directly answered your question, but hopefully I have pointed the direction the herd went in.

RobC · **Posted:** Fri May 31, 2013 12:01 am

Norm, the only reason to replace the rollers is because they have been flat-spotted by running them back and forth while stuck. First order of business is just to remove, clean and inspect. Often, they just need to be cleaned and lubed. They really don't wear much if properly maintained.

You will find that Lance is very expensive. They try to stock new parts since that is what their customers want. There really is no competition anymore.

51fixer · **Posted:** Fri May 31, 2013 6:59 am

Mustanger55 wrote:

Hi All,

A dumb question from a newbie. Are the canopy rollers the same throughout the AT-6 series?

I'm starting a static restoration of an AT-6B and the canopies are pretty sticky. Looked at the T-6G parts catalog and I'm assuming I need 2 sets of 8 rollers for the two sliding canopies, if these are the same for the B.

Looks like Lance is about the only source out there, right?

http://p51h.home.comcast.net/~p51h/at6b/index.htm

Your airframe could be put together from different parts looking at the photos.
Its listed as a B but has an Instrument panel and electrical box below from a later series. B was 12 volt and the installed electrical box is for the later 24 volt models.
The point is a factor that really influences how easily the canopies move is the alignment of the rails they slide on.
I would remove the canopies, remove the rear metal aft of the rear seat, which also has rear stops for he back canopy. Slide the back seat canopy to the rear off the tracks.
Remove the middle canopy by removing the screws that secure it and pull it up with the front canopy full forward.
Remove the latch on the L/H side of the front canopy and slide it off its tracks to the rear.
Remove the screws that hold on the rollers, there is a roller and a bronze guide for each, keep these together. Clean and polish up the surfaces were it rotates.
Reinstall with the bronze guide in the same location as you removed it as the guide slot will wear in with use. If you rotate it you will have to wear it in all over again.
Use new hardware on the rollers if it is rusted.
Clean the rails of old grease and paint and gunk.
If they dont slide easily when you reinstall then the rails aren't installed properly. There are shims under the whole upper piece that runs from firewall to tailcone that the canopy rails attach to. Since they are slightly angled inward the shims adjust the position of the canopy rails in small increments inward or outward.
In my Bald Eagle Thread a couple years ago I had to change the upper rail on the SNJ here. There are pics there that might benefit you.
Good Luck

Mustanger55 · **Posted:** Sat Jun 01, 2013 12:54 am

Thanks for the instructions Rich.
Good advice from an experienced hand is always best. I've been trying to read through the E&M and structural repair manuals, but usually only late at night and don't seem to retain much.
I'll have to get a look at that 'Bald Eagle' thread. Pictures ARE worth a thousand words.

I'm discovering what you pointed out. Appears a few very late AT-6B and most AT-6C switched to 24 volt systems as equipment for both are listed in the parts catalog I have.
This airframe spent 40-odd years as a civilian before it was donated back to the Chanute AFB for display. No telling what mods and changes were done in USAAF service and by various civilian owners over all those years.

I haven't done any real research into AT-6 T.O.s as of yet, but I'm guessing some, if not most B's would have been upgraded to 24 volt systems at some point, just to coincide with radio and other equipment changes. Going with later panels/equipment doesn't bother me too much as long as it is reasonably likely to have been legitamite AAF mods.

Thanks again for the instructions. I've copied and pasted them into my canopy notes for future use.

51fixer · **Posted:** Sat Jun 01, 2013 7:48 am

Mustanger55 wrote:

Thanks for the instructions Rich.
Good advice from an experienced hand is always best. I've been trying to read through the E&M and structural repair manuals, but usually only late at night and don't seem to retain much.
I'll have to get a look at that 'Bald Eagle' thread. Pictures ARE worth a thousand words.

I'm discovering what you pointed out. Appears a few very late AT-6B and most AT-6C switched to 24 volt systems as equipment for both are listed in the parts catalog I have.
This airframe spent 40-odd years as a civilian before it was donated back to the Chanute AFB for display. No telling what mods and changes were done in USAAF service and by various civilian owners over all those years.

I haven't done any real research into AT-6 T.O.s as of yet, but I'm guessing some, if not most B's would have been upgraded to 24 volt systems at some point, just to coincide with radio and other equipment changes. Going with later panels/equipment doesn't bother me too much as long as it is reasonably likely to have been legitamite AAF mods.

Thanks again for the instructions. I've copied and pasted them into my canopy notes for future use.

Typically the parts book covers multiple different models. Kinda of a everything up to T-6D or SNJ-3 through SNJ-5 and both will be listed.
I wouldn't use the parts book as gospel for what was install on any particular A/C as there are parts not even listed in the IPC that are on the A/C and they will list parts that are only on another model as being on yours.
Blueprints are more accurate as well as the T-6B parts listing avail from the NASM archives.
I seriously doubt the B was ever a 24 V A/C in Military service but there is a very small chance it might have been modified.
Our SNJ-3 or AT-6A went through O/H in 44 and was left 12V. Military in the US operated 12V types postwar.
Again good luck.

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