Re: Wow..
Mon Apr 21, 2008 8:08 pm
Rossco wrote:Thanks for the responses guys.The ally is folded up first into the various sections then fed into the rollers.Sanding the scuffs out is an option but I don,t like removing material from the thickness.Originally they would either be pressed or rolled I think.Havent found much on the way Supermarine built it,s components but do know there were a lot of sub contractors and many were car body builders.So olde English hand skills would have been relevant.
OK so looking closer, is the center form roller aluminum as well? It looks like the two cylindrical rollers are steel and the feed/form roller is aluminum. Also, the form roller has rather large radii from the hub to the flanges. Does this radius match the radius on the channel?
How about some lube whilst forming? Anti-sieze is always "nice" but you'll find it on everything you touch for the next twenty years...
Wed Apr 30, 2008 5:50 pm
I am not sure you need the 3 rollers....you do, but I would re-examine their proximity and the fact none oppose each other. After I roll formed these hat stringers from .040" 3003-H14 (certainly easier to mar due to softness), I then power rolled them into the semi-circle we need for our cowling.
The caster wheel is levering against the rollers at spindle and as those two fully contain the stringer, there is no profile distortion. The tools are lubed and highly polished H13 steel (lots of chrome so take a good polish). I did have some drag marks, but they were polishable with Scotchbrite. I bumped the caster in to adjust radius. Due to its mechanical avantage it tales little effort.
The results we perfect fitment.....
It is holding paper between the stringer and the spinning.....that's mitee close!!
I do not know if this is of any relevance to your project. But I find ideas many times when observing other's work. What I have shown above with a Bridgeport, you can do with a lathe ( I was going to use the lathe, but it is too close to the wall and a 7' stick won't clear!)or horizontal mill if you feel the setup takes more power and rigidity. Just in a perpendicular plane.
Here's the poop to the above set up and possibly your problem......By having a driver and a driven roller directly opposite each other and that have adjustable centers, the power to drive the material is gained by the pressure exerted on the material when closing the center distance....not the pressure from adjusting the radius of arc to be formed as your tool does! This allows you to relieve the rollers to ease scuffing!!!! This allows many light pressure passes which can ease marring. You can have the rollers grip the material on the opposing faces and have plastic flanges. Give it some thought. It may not help your situation but it presents another alternative.
The caster wheel is levering against the rollers at spindle and as those two fully contain the stringer, there is no profile distortion. The tools are lubed and highly polished H13 steel (lots of chrome so take a good polish). I did have some drag marks, but they were polishable with Scotchbrite. I bumped the caster in to adjust radius. Due to its mechanical avantage it tales little effort.
The results we perfect fitment.....
It is holding paper between the stringer and the spinning.....that's mitee close!!
I do not know if this is of any relevance to your project. But I find ideas many times when observing other's work. What I have shown above with a Bridgeport, you can do with a lathe ( I was going to use the lathe, but it is too close to the wall and a 7' stick won't clear!)or horizontal mill if you feel the setup takes more power and rigidity. Just in a perpendicular plane.
Here's the poop to the above set up and possibly your problem......By having a driver and a driven roller directly opposite each other and that have adjustable centers, the power to drive the material is gained by the pressure exerted on the material when closing the center distance....not the pressure from adjusting the radius of arc to be formed as your tool does! This allows you to relieve the rollers to ease scuffing!!!! This allows many light pressure passes which can ease marring. You can have the rollers grip the material on the opposing faces and have plastic flanges. Give it some thought. It may not help your situation but it presents another alternative.
Wow
Mon May 05, 2008 4:49 am
Thanks so much guys..It has really been food for thought in seeing other guys ideas.
sdennison...The rollers are all Aluminium except for a couple that are brass.
Wheelsup...amazing idea,never thought of adapting a miller for that type of work..
One of the biggest limitations of the Spit we found are the F6,F7,F9 hatsections as the height is 1.5 inches with the top width being 1" and the flanges being .6".The other is the outer firewall channel with the flanges being quite long.
[/img]
sdennison...The rollers are all Aluminium except for a couple that are brass.
Wheelsup...amazing idea,never thought of adapting a miller for that type of work..
One of the biggest limitations of the Spit we found are the F6,F7,F9 hatsections as the height is 1.5 inches with the top width being 1" and the flanges being .6".The other is the outer firewall channel with the flanges being quite long.
[/img]