This is the place where the majority of the warbird (aircraft that have survived military service) discussions will take place. Specialized forums may be added in the new future
Fri Aug 31, 2012 3:29 pm
Rich:
Good info which we will act upon. Our plan was to double-check the wiring and the balance resistor...you've verified our approach is the right one. The Jasco people have been pretty helpful, although a bit hard to get in touch with at times.
I'll post if we were successful or not next week.
Glenn: if we chose to go back with the gen, any guess as to how much aggravation will this be?
Appreciate the help.
Old Shep
Fri Aug 31, 2012 7:58 pm
If the typical TBO of the alt is 300 hrs, how does that compare to the gen?
Fri Aug 31, 2012 8:26 pm
bdk wrote:If the typical TBO of the alt is 300 hrs, how does that compare to the gen?
Merlin uses a high speed drive for the the gen drive pad.
Dunno how that influences things.
Fri Aug 31, 2012 8:33 pm
In 30 years of working on Mustangs I have replaced one generator.
In the last couple of years alone, I have fielded calls from three different Mustangs with the same multiple alternator/regulator failures that Old Shep describes.
Just what I have encountered...
Fri Aug 31, 2012 9:09 pm
Something else for Old Shep to think about...
If the airplane has a Sandel installed, they like to have a wire directly to 24V 24 hrs a day to keep them "awake" so when you hit the switch the display lights up. Problem is that if the airplane is not flown regularly, it draws the battery down.
Next you pull it outside to go for your "once every couple of weeks" flight. On comes the pre-oiler for a few minutes, then the boost pump, then it gets cranked a bit longer than it should to get it started. Once it's running you flip the switch to light off the 100K worth of avionics needed for a 30 minute local flight. You warm it up and finally get it up to 1400 or 1500 rpm where the alternator comes on line, but there is basically no cooling air getting to it since you are sitting still. and the charging system fried due to a heavy charging load and no cooling...
If you don't run it regularly, use a power cart and save the battery, and move that wire for the Sandel to the other side of the battery relay. It may take ten seconds for the Sandel to light up, but it won't be a constant draw on the battery.
Last, and most important is to be sure to run a two inch blast hose to the alternator, which means opening up the port in the air duct to match.
Not sure if any of that applies, but you get the idea, which is to limit the initial load on the alternator and increase the cooling to it.
Fri Aug 31, 2012 9:28 pm
Thanks Glenn....will check to see if the avionics might be to blame in some of this. I do know we have the blast tube as you describe. We are moving rather slowly here, as my experience has been T-6 and round engines. This particular Mustang has just been purchased...redone by Trudeau so it is a fresh restoration.
Fri Aug 31, 2012 9:50 pm
Old Shep wrote:Thanks Glenn....will check to see if the avionics might be to blame in some of this. I do know we have the blast tube as you describe. We are moving rather slowly here, as my experience has been T-6 and round engines. This particular Mustang has just been purchased...redone by Trudeau so it is a fresh restoration.
When you have extended low engine rpm operations such as long taxi after start up but engine is still warm, ie multiple flights, leave the alt off as cooling air is low and may try to carry some load to recharge the battery. After runup pulling onto the runway turn it back on.
The last alt we lost was during the long taxi with everything heat soaked after start up on a warm engine and then a long hold short.
Fri Aug 31, 2012 9:56 pm
Hi Rich:
We will look at making that SOP when taxiing a long distance on hot days....here in West Texas we've got a monopoly on hot days!
Between your advice and Glenn's we will get a handle on this.
Sat Sep 01, 2012 10:02 pm
Sat Sep 01, 2012 10:15 pm
Been working on some of the SNJ-3 parts and we cleaned up the fwd floor rails under the rudder pedals. The rails are anodized alum and you could tell where shoes had polished the metal through the anodize. That bare area has some surface corrosion grow since the late 70s.
This is the L/H before-

The R/H after glass bead cleaning-

Both after cleaning-

A difference I see on these is the amount of wear at the aft end of the rails. Some heavy boots sat at the rear for an extended time which I have a theory that since this had a mod done to add a curtain in the back seat for Instrument training the front instructor just pulled his feet away from the rudder pedals while serving as the instructor/obnserver and keeping the boots there accounts for this wear. There is a round head rivet at the rear of the R/H rail that the rivet head is also nearly worn away.
Sun Sep 02, 2012 9:52 am
51fixer wrote:Does anyone know what this was used on? There isn't a P/N I can find on it. Backside does have remnants of Green Primer where it would be retained and otherwise it is black rubber, maybe 3.5" square.

I have one that looks like that, but it has a tube socket on the back. I know mine came out of a Navion.
Sun Sep 02, 2012 11:35 am
shrike wrote:51fixer wrote:Does anyone know what this was used on? There isn't a P/N I can find on it. Backside does have remnants of Green Primer where it would be retained and otherwise it is black rubber, maybe 3.5" square.

I have one that looks like that, but it has a tube socket on the back. I know mine came out of a Navion.
I was thinking Navion, Thx
Sun Sep 02, 2012 11:45 am
Maybe a toe step pad from a step strut......???
Mon Sep 03, 2012 1:31 pm
Clutch pedal pad for the old type inertial starters?
Chris...
Mon Sep 03, 2012 5:18 pm
How many different versions of the NAA logo are there?
That one is kinda odd...
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