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As I said earlier the base for our stay was with Avril Williams at her B&B at Ocean Villa Tea Rooms at Auchonvillers. The cellar of the house was used as a dressing station and surgery. If you are staying Avril will show you down there.
Photography is difficult and Avril would rather you do not dwell down there. She has a great respect for what went on down here and is anxious that it is preserved so visits are brief. But they are no less special for that.


On the walls there are various names carved into the brickwork. These were made by the Soldiers who were treated there. These are mostly from 1916 and the Royal Irish Regiment. On one was there are the initials JC carved in a shield. This was done in memory of Rifleman J Crozier probably by a friend. He was held here the night before he was shot. We found his grave by chance and before he went there himself he was held below our feet. All very sobering.
(a small experiment as there was no way I could get a good exposure)

In the back garden, the original trenches have been re-excavated (some in front of British TV cameras). This is the outside view of a secondary entrance to the cellar (there were always 2 entrances)

Kitchen?




A view across the Back Garden. Your stay there will be “rustic” but the breakfast is English and should you have an evening meal there then the food is simple French fare with good wine and is very good value.
www.avrilwilliams.com> its an essential stopping point.
Avril also has a small museum over the road and a good view of the battlefield can be gained from its car park. The museum contains exhibits from most of the conflicts in this area .
World War 1

Compare this model of a trench with the shot from the back garden

World War 2, the Jeep made one of our party very happy.

And a Lancaster propeller spinner from a local crash site.

As an aside Avril makes an excellent cup of tea, which is what we needed after the trip down the cellar.
After tea we set out again into the Battlefields. Our first stop was Ovillers Military Cemetery.
Situated in No Mans Land it contains 3436 British and 120 French burials and was started like so many as a result of deaths at a Dressing Station. The majority of it is post war concentration. This is a view across no mans land, in the distance can be seen the Golden Madonna on the tower of La Basilique in Albert.

We were here to find the grave of Captain John Lauder who was the son of the music hall artist Harry Lauder who was killed on 28th August 1916. It is reported that he was not well liked by his men and the shot that killed him may have come from the rear. There are a few reports of scores being settled like this on the Battlefield.

The Lochnagar Mine was exploded 2 minutes before zero hour on July 1st. It was made up of 26.8 tons of ammanol and was exploded under the front of a German position knows as the Schwaben Höhe. It’s the largest mine crater on the Western Front. Crater is a war grave for the remains of the Germans who occupied the position.

The size of the person standing by the cross gives some scale to the hole. Here is the cross.

There is an interesting memorial near the rim

It is for Pte George Nugent whose remains were found during clearance of the are in 1998, he is now at Ovillers Military Cemetery.
Our next location was a bit different. We stopped at the German Cemetery sat Fricourt. This is the only German Cemetery near the British part of the 1916 battlefield.


We all noticed how very stark it is. There are 17026 Germans buried here, 5056 under steel crosses (4 to a cross)

and 11970 in 2 mass graves to the rear

There are a few stone headstones for Jewish burials and these as is normal have pebbles placed on them by visitors.

The bodies of many more Germans still lie under the battlefields as the victors normally took more care over the graves of their own men than they did of the enemy.
Nowadays the lost and missing of both side are remembered.

The next update will turn the toughest men to tears but make their chest swell with pride at the same time.