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Classic Wings Magazine WWII Naval Aviation Research Pacific Luftwaffe Resource Center
When Hollywood Ruled The Skies - Volumes 1 through 4 by Bruce Oriss


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 1:50 pm 
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I too am in the process of repainting my WW2 vintage biplane
In this case a 1940 Fleet Finch ( thread soon to follow)
Instead of painting on the military markings , I have decided to go with high grade decals.
Here is a link to a really good military decal source http://www.canmilair.com/restoration%20gallery.htm
They have produced many Canadian and American warbird sets of decals
Take a look at their Warbird photos to see examples of their work or see example of some of the static jet displays at EAA Oshkosh
With the value of the Canadian vs US $$$ , it is very cost effective for US residents

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 7:49 pm 
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The color difference on the USAF Museum PT-13D/N2S-5, the first and probably only time the same exact model was delivered to both services, pictured is because the USN standard was to anodize the aluminum and leave it in the resultant gray. In practice the Navy often later sprayed the fabric yellow during maintenance which resulted in yellow fabric and gray metal as is frequently seen in restorations, looks odd but it's authentic.

Tom-

Obergrafeter wrote:
If your plane is colored with paint as opposed to Dope you will probably get more cracking and crows feet than the doped one. I just would never put paint on a fabric airplane, but that is just me. I have been told that the new "modern" paints flex enough not to be a problem, but if you want original go back to dope. The color variations in the silver plane shown, show the difference in using dope on fabric, and paint on the metal parts. I like these variations as that is how the original planes were. I am sure with modern coating these variations can be omitted.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 9:20 pm 
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The only thing I ask is if you do pick a military scheme, please, please, please use the original military FSN numbers and paint codes. SO many restorations involve someone asking someone what colors they used and then being given something totally unauthentic that "looked good " on the paint charts. I restored and won some awards on a 1953 Willys Jeep. I found online a manual for painting USMC colors for that time period. THen I went to three paint shops, one being a manufacturer and they found the modern day equivalent codes for the mixes. For example Dupont Alkyd Enamel is now available as Acrylic Enamel. The original formulas aren't too shiny or have metal flaking, or whatever. IT will really give the item that vintage , right out of the factory look that will get you the most satisfaction. Double check and triple check any codes an "expert" or owner gives you.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 9:55 pm 
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Someone restoring a Stearman told me a few years ago that when Stearmans left the factory in silver they had both a AAF serial number and Navy Bureau Number painted on the tail. When they arrived at a whichever service was using them they would paint out the "opposing" serial number. Any truth to that?

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 27, 2015 11:57 pm 
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That's an often repeated falsehood, there are clearly two separate lists of CN/SNs and CN/BNs for AAF and USN PT-13D/N2S-5 Stearmans. When earlier model AAF PT-17s were reallocated to the USN as N2Ss the SNs were cancelled and BNs assigned. To the best of my knowledge the only case in which two SNs were assigned to the same aircraft was the PT-27s which had both AAF and RCAF SNs.

Tom-

John Dupre wrote:
Someone restoring a Stearman told me a few years ago that when Stearmans left the factory in silver they had both a AAF serial number and Navy Bureau Number painted on the tail. When they arrived at a whichever service was using them they would paint out the "opposing" serial number. Any truth to that?


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