What kind of Primer do you use?

[Broken-Wrench]

I use Courtlands Fuel Resistant Primer and Wabash products wash primer (Same stuff Piper A/C Used). What have you used and what were the results? I would also like to hear if your were unhappy with a product. Thanks

[HarvardIV]

I use Zinc Chromate, and the grey metal etching primer. My only complaint is the price. THe grey stuff is especially good, because it sticks to the metal better than anything.

I would like to get a hold of that very light greenish yellow primer.

[Broken-Wrench]

That wabash products is use has zinc and is hazordous and you must use a fresh air resperator. All the good stuff will kill ya. What brands are you using?

[HarvardIV]

Broken Wrench:

I'm not sure what you are saying is true. Could you post the MSDS for each primer, so we could check?

[Jase]

To my mind, anyone who paints without at the very least a charcoal canister respirator is foolish and putting himself at risk. Even the water based paints have some rather evil chemicals in them that will do your lungs no good whatsoever.

Think about this: Do you want your lungs to have the same stuff inside them that you are applying to your airplane?

Most if not all the MSDS sheets you'll find anymore recommend using a respirator, probably from a liability standpoint, but it's still a good common-sense idea.

[Broken-Wrench]

Broken Wrench:

I'm not sure what you are saying is true. Could you post the MSDS for each primer, so we could check?

I 'll ask my buddy for it when I order some more. They made it in Indiana ( Wabash products ) and he was a friend and I just picked it up with no paperwork. But that is what he told me to wear a not just a resperator but a positve feed fresh air mask. There were concerns with the safety of this product and now it has limted uses but is still made. You spray it on thin so you can see thru it and then you use epoxie primer over it

[HarvardIV]

Hi Broken Wrench:

That's alright, I only primer a few parts out in the open, and hold my breath when I do it.

At any rate, I'd be more concerned with solvents and paint strippers, becasue those can cause skin cancer.

Chris

[Broken-Wrench]

Man have you every used quickclean stripper? It works great and is made in Vincennes Indiana. Makes you wonder why all the good cemicals come from Indiana huh? I took some panels to oshkosh and let each vendor have one and and told them not to diddle with them and the quick clean worked the best. Those enviromentaly safe ones did hardly sh%$. You have to wear a bunny suit because it takes off skin goood to.

[Broken-Wrench]

Hi Broken Wrench:

That's alright, I only primer a few parts out in the open, and hold my breath when I do it.

At any rate, I'd be more concerned with solvents and paint strippers, becasue those can cause skin cancer.

Chris

Are you rattle can priming them?

[HarvardIV]

For small areas, yes.

[bdk]

Are you rattle can priming them?

I Phos. etch and rattle can zinc my stuff, but that is all internal stuff. I'll stay bare metal on the exterior of my T-6 for now. I think the primer you use for your topcoat of choice really depends on what your topcoat is and what the manufacturer recommends. There are so many variables- flat or glossy, polyurethane or enamel, filled and smoothed for Reno, budget, etc.

[Ollie]

We use two kinds :

- rattle can automotive grey sandable for small parts.

- thick stuff that's totally nasty, a greenish colour for the rest.

That last one is something, good luck cleaning the gun. I think it's a vinyl wash primer.

[HarvardIV]

I Phos. etch and rattle can zinc my stuff, but that is all internal stuff.

bdk, you don't need to, self metal etching primer does that step automatically.

However, if you still want to etch in a separate step, may I recommend an Isocyanide coat.

[bdk]

bdk, you don't need to, self metal etching primer does that step automatically.

I do the etch for a few reasons. One is it removes any surface corrosion and another is that it helps to remove any methylene chloride stripper residue. I can't really be bothered to break out the spray gun for a few small parts, so I use the Zinc Chromate that Aircraft Spruce & Specialty sells in rattle cans.

This should be good for at least another 50 years (and probably much more since it will spend its remaining life in a hangar).

BTW, Stits also sells a very good alkaline cleaner as well as their version of Prep-Sol.

[HarvardIV]

Hey BDk:

I actually strip the old paint first, then I apply luma prep-(phosphorous based) on any corrosion I find, and then I apply the self etching primer.

It sounds very similar to what you do.