Fri May 19, 2006 1:17 am
The only stupid question is the one not asked. 
Pure aluminum doesn't corrode, but is extremely soft, that's why it's used as a coating on aluminum sheets when they're manufactured. Aircraft aluminum sheet metal itself, on the other hand, is made by alloying pure aluminum with other metals to make it stronger.
However, the pure aluminum coating is easily damaged and once the sheet metal starts to break down (corrode), there's NO restoring it. There's only arresting the corrosion, and this is done by many different methods, or replacing the metal.
Pure aluminum doesn't corrode, but is extremely soft, that's why it's used as a coating on aluminum sheets when they're manufactured. Aircraft aluminum sheet metal itself, on the other hand, is made by alloying pure aluminum with other metals to make it stronger.
However, the pure aluminum coating is easily damaged and once the sheet metal starts to break down (corrode), there's NO restoring it. There's only arresting the corrosion, and this is done by many different methods, or replacing the metal.
Fri May 19, 2006 3:40 am
Col. Rohr wrote:DIK SHEPHERD wrote:Question then could you alloyed replacement aluminum into the corrode area. I know when we do airworthy restoration we replace the skin with new but I was think along the lines of how to conserve none irworthy projects with the original skin.(does this sound to far fech of an idea?)
RER
Rob...So your inquiring about a method to replace the actual corrosion scar or "lesion"
in the sheetmetal with new metal?
A plating or "solder" technique? There are low temp solders you can fill with,
but they won't buff-out to shine..But if you can live with that...
As for localized restorative plating...well that would be an interesting read...
Fri May 19, 2006 2:43 pm
You scrap it and get new metal. When she is gone she is gone!
Fri May 19, 2006 3:55 pm
Are you thinking along these line?
http://www.metal-morphous.com
Hope this helps.
Shay
____________
Semper Fortis
http://www.metal-morphous.com
Hope this helps.
Shay
____________
Semper Fortis
Fri May 19, 2006 4:06 pm
Rob why are you asking?
Fri May 19, 2006 11:15 pm
Flame spray. You can rebuild the thickness of the aluminum. You would then probably need to sand it smooth and polish it. This process involves a lot of heat, so the paint would have to be removed or would likely get burned off in the repair area. Thin sheet metal might also get warped.
Flame spray is typically used to repair wear surfaces, so it wouldn't be a good technique for something structural.
Alternately, you might be able to burnish some thin aluminum foil into place and then sand smooth.
Maybe if you post a picture of specifically what you want to repair, someone could suggest a suitable process.
Flame spray is typically used to repair wear surfaces, so it wouldn't be a good technique for something structural.
Alternately, you might be able to burnish some thin aluminum foil into place and then sand smooth.
Maybe if you post a picture of specifically what you want to repair, someone could suggest a suitable process.
Sat May 20, 2006 3:30 am
Shay wrote:Are you thinking along these lines?
Hope this helps.
Shay
____________
Semper Fortis
Yaahh.. you can say that Shay! That's effffing COOL!!
On balsa and plastic??? Awsome... 
Check out the other P-38...beats the hell out've a lawn jockey or a Warbird-on-a-pole...
Second examp in Additionals, www.metal-morphous.com/sample5.html
I've a friend with a "special problem" that's been a head-scratcher for a bit,
Morphous or Flamespray are interesting possibilities! Need a Big Thumbs-Up emoticon here..
Thanx Guys!!
Sat May 20, 2006 6:15 am
It's all very expensive and labor intensive. Just use some bondo if it isn't going to fly again
Sat May 20, 2006 7:28 am
If it's for an accredited museum, there are a range of 'stabilisation' techniques which halt decay or degradation. These are internationally agreed tools, techniques and processes available to professionals in the field, and interested parties.
It's not appropriate to repair parts in such collections unless they threaten the integrity of the artefact. Any repairs and changes need to be identifiable and documented, and 'as good as new' or imperceptible is therefore not appropriate.
Robert Mikesh's book 'Restoring Museum Aircraft' is the best (only!) work focussed on aviation, but there are many other museum guides as well.
It's not appropriate to repair parts in such collections unless they threaten the integrity of the artefact. Any repairs and changes need to be identifiable and documented, and 'as good as new' or imperceptible is therefore not appropriate.
Robert Mikesh's book 'Restoring Museum Aircraft' is the best (only!) work focussed on aviation, but there are many other museum guides as well.
Sun May 21, 2006 12:10 pm
Broken-Wrench wrote:It's all very expensive.
How soon before Harbor Freight or Eastwood offer clones?
Tue May 23, 2006 9:58 pm
Rob,
If I read this correctly, you are trying to find a simple and cheap way to stop the rot. I am also assuming you do not want to destroy the original paint or markings, yes?
In engineering terms think KISS "keep it simple stupid" I was taught that long time ago.
A clear lacquer will do the job, have a chat with your local hot rod shop or paint shop they can point you in the right direction, what you are doing is stopping the air and moisture from access to the artifact,
ergo - stabilisation.
However this is not a certified museum method.
Stuart
If I read this correctly, you are trying to find a simple and cheap way to stop the rot. I am also assuming you do not want to destroy the original paint or markings, yes?
In engineering terms think KISS "keep it simple stupid" I was taught that long time ago.
A clear lacquer will do the job, have a chat with your local hot rod shop or paint shop they can point you in the right direction, what you are doing is stopping the air and moisture from access to the artifact,
ergo - stabilisation.
However this is not a certified museum method.
Stuart
Wed May 24, 2006 7:30 pm
i want that f-100 for my hood ornament!!!