Warbird Information Exchange

Was wondering what would be a good lens to have for night photography? I got a Nikon D80.

Thanks,
Nathan

At what focal length? For night shots, you want the fastest lens you can get. F1.2, 1.4, 2.0. Image stabilization is a must nowadays.

The better the glass, the better the images. Go for Nikon or Canon lenses rather than after-market like Sigma or Tokina.

I'd look for something like a 50mm F1.4 for general night shooting.

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Rich Kolasa
www.crystalgraphix.com

Canon won't be much use on Nathan's Nikon D80 body.

they make adaptors, mike, for that very reason.

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"I knew the jig was up when I saw the P-51D-20-NA Mustang blue-nosed bastards from Bodney, and by the way the blue was more of a royal blue than an indigo and the inner landing gear interiors were NOT green, over Berlin."

its ok guys I knew what he ment. Actually I asked a pretty stupid question really. I been eyeing the 18-135mmm lens. I know its not as fansy as all the otehr lenses but so far I been reading some good reviews on it. Actually I need a lens for general purpose more then for night photography. Thanks again.

Nathan, for quality images I would avoid a zoom lens with more than a 3x factor between the short and long ends. They're going to be slow and not as sharp. I'm not familiar with the Nikon line, but for night shooting I would generally favor a moderate wide angle, either a prime or a more modest zoom. Rich is right, fast and stabilized is good. Third party lenses such as Tokina, however, can be as good as Nikons and Canons, often better than their consumer grade stuff. Read reviews online or in the magazines about the specific lens. With care and a tripod, almost any lens is good for night shooting, so you're right to get a general-use lens and just use it at night sometimes.

August

Nikon lens to Canon body - agreed, you can buy an adapter.

However........

Canon lens to Nikon body is not possible, apparently, due to the relative sizes and positions of the lens mounts on the Canon and Nikon systems.

'Night photography' is a bit vague -

On tripod static subject, or off tripod, or moving subject?

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James K

"Switch on the underwater landing lights"
Emilio Largo, Thunderball.

www.VintageAeroWriter.com

I have already practised night photography last year. Rule of thumb is use a tripod, go out nights with a full moon, and I have a remote to connect to my camera(in manual setting) so I can take long exposures. The camera itself only allows me exposure only up to 30 seconds. Since I am going for 2-4 minutes exposures I needed that remote so I bought one and it works pretty good. I tried both my kit lens of 18-55mm and my Nikkor 70-300mm VR. Both seemed to give me good results. Next thing on my list I am going to get a bean bag to weigh down my tripod. I found out that even if the camera is mounted on a tripod that wind can still cause the camera to shake and end up with a blurry picture. As I am trying to strive for perfection I am using every trick I can muster. I also just learned that you should have your ISO set as low as you can go. Along with setting your white balance. But I am still learning up on that. I've learned that your DSL has a host of options you can use to help you gain a better picture. The only problem is learning to set everything correctly and equal for a good shot. I don't even use auto mode anymore. I guess thats good! I'm still learning!


Been looking at the Tamron line of lens. Good or bad?

You're going about it the right way Nathan.

Tamron is reputable, but you can't generalize quality across a whole maker's line of lenses, not even Nikon or Canon. They all have their gems and lemons. Research the specific lens of interest.

August

I think that's right. The constraining factor usually is lens mount flange to film (uh, sorry, sensor) distance. If you cannot get the lens as close to the film as it was on its intended camera, you won't be able to focus to infinity. So you can adapt a lens to a different camera with an equal or shorter flange to film/sensor distance (the adapter will include a spacer if needed), but not to one with a longer distance -- unless you use an adapter with optics in it that also functions as a teleconverter, increasing the lens focal length. Current AF Nikons have a 46.5 FTS distance; Canons are 44mm. Canon has one of the shorter FTS distances currently, so lots of lenses can be used on them. Nikons are among the longest and it is difficult to adapt other lenses to them.

August

??????
Is this correct? I kick my ISO to its highest setting (~3200) when it gets dark.

Just clarifying.
Tommy

Hi,

From what I have read:

A lower ISO results in less noise, and since noise is usually a problem with long exposures an ISO of 200 is often ideal.

Depends on the camera. Higher ISO always creates more digital noise, but the newer cameras have made great strides in improving high-ISO performance. The really top-end ones look good even at 3200. I have an older one and it is crap above ISO 200. If ultimate quality is your goal and you have a rock-steady tripod then Nathan's advice is good. But it will be a much longer exposure so depending on conditions, you may have to trade off less noise against possible camera movement.

August

Well I plan on taking most of my night shots around 2 minute exposures. So can I still use a low ISO then?

Also thanks to all your help I am also learning up on aparture. I guess its a good rule of thumb that when doing night photography its good to use aparture settings between f/4 and f/11. Is this correct?