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Classic Wings Magazine WWII Naval Aviation Research Pacific Luftwaffe Resource Center
When Hollywood Ruled The Skies - Volumes 1 through 4 by Bruce Oriss


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 6:14 pm 
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OK, so the Escapac ejection seat bar stool is now a "C" model with latest mod to base. Dead nuts stable. May find two more on EBay soon. 8)



Now, on to the L-1011 nacelle bar. Trucked in from AZ. Day one of real work was to start cutting down from stock to 42" bar height. The nacelle will get full mirror polish and custom tempered glass top.

OK, so now to the brain. Inside of nacelle is aluminum perf material, outside is 1/4" honeycomb. Once the outside and inside skins are removed, two sections have resin honey comb with a GRF skin, the balance are aluminum honey comb with an aluminum skin. Why? Material would be 2024 or 7075?

No ponies involve and not a trick question. I am dumb and want to find the answer. Oh yeah, that stuff is sharp too. :shock: But, if I am not bleeding from somewhere, I'm not having fun. Man, this is fun! :drink3:

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Last edited by sdennison on Sun Apr 22, 2012 10:11 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 7:13 pm 
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Don't bet on the metal being either 2024 or 7075, Locoweed had a penchant for using pretty exotic aluminum compounds (one of the reasons why you an hear an L-1011 corroding if it's quiet outside :lol: ). If you can, salvage the 'HITEAGUES' in the skin you've removed. They're Ti and will take a regular 5/16ths mini nut with washers for grip adjustment. A tiny allen wrench and a good pair of visegrips should remove the original collars, the heads are 82 degree csks. The anti ice bull nose will polish right up just don't use a great deal of pressure.
The internal sound deadener might be KEVLAR so be aware that the stuff is a breathing hazard, it gets in your lungs and looks like microscopic fishhooks so it never gets expelled by normal breathing-I'd very carefully remove all of it and take it to a hazmat outfit. It was installed @ the manufacturer (Short Bros. & Harland) to cut down on the buzz caused by the inlet LPF blade tips, think a HUEY is irritating with just 2 square tipped rotor blades? how about 80 square tipped blades?? broken ends of fibers are pretty itchy too stuck in your forearm or finger. Red SCOTCHBRITE and cold water.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 7:35 pm 
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Ya, used mask against the unknown. Cuts are from honeycomb "teeth". Ok, wtf is a "hiteague".

Brown colored fiber with simple resin looking honeycomb. Could be Kevlar. Also found petrified guard lizard inside. Honeycomb has 1990 date stamp/inspection on inside.

So, there are two tubes mounted in the nacelle, what are they? Hanging mount Ti as well? Bolt on item nearly worn through.

The perfect was just for sound deadening? No pressure air thing or the like?

Thanks Boss.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 8:29 pm 
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The HITEAGUE is the Titanium hilok used to build the pigs, when Ti fasteners were new and 'exotic', if you reuse them a regular #10 drill will work along with an allen wrench, originally the holes were supposed to be drilled to .1865 and driven into place as they are an interference fit but not important if it ain't gonna fly (wasn't terribly important to a lot of the hippies and bikers who were screwing it together @ Palmdale either).
The tubes should be thermal anti ice ducting from the engines approximately 11th stage, run through an air to air heat exchanger to deice the inlet lip, the mount bolt S/B stainless steel (CRES) as they were consumables and the part I see was the forward mount for the pylon slipper fairing that tied into the engine pylon fairing it should have serrated adjustment plates on both parts, you might find parts 'glued together' by a tan sealant called 2121, we called it 'Babys#it' :shock: because of its color, texture, smell, and the fact that like its namesake, a small drop of it would spread out like diesel on a lake as you tried to clean it up, anyone who ever changed a baby diaper will instantly know what I mean. :?
The material was just to cut down on side noise particularly if you were standing in line with the LPF or even riding inside the cabin, kind of like hearing a dentists drill from a few doors way. It's most likely just paper honeycomb as KEVLAR would be sort of pale yellow and either loose, fluffy blankets or if molded, would be yellow inside a hard fibreglass coating. I'd pitch it.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 8:55 pm 
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Quote:
Sdennison, Nuts Again...Still?


Was there any doubt...ever? :drink3: :drink3: :drink3: :drink3:

Cool projects!!!!

Saludos,


Tulio

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I am one of them 'futbol' people.

Will the previous owner has pics of this double cabin sample

GOOD MORNING, WELCOME TO THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
Press "1" for English.
Press "2" to disconnect until you have learned to speak English.


Sooooo, how am I going to know to press 1 or 2, if I do not speak English????


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 9:07 pm 
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Tulio wrote:
Quote:
Sdennison, Nuts Again...Still?


Was there any doubt...ever? :drink3: :drink3: :drink3: :drink3:

Cool projects!!!!

Saludos,


Tulio


How are you my friend? I hope you are well and hope to hook up one day. :drink3:

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 9:20 pm 
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Ok Inspector, now translate what you told me. The resin stuff was light brown, tan glass with resin honeycomb. So, why was that different from the aluminum skinned, aluminum honeycomb?

I have no clue what you are talking about with the hiteagues. I removed one tube with a clamp flange on it but there are two other inlet looking ducts that I have no idea of.

What do you think the base mating flange structure is? Looks all aluminum. Alloy?

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 10:32 pm 
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OK,. the resin honeycomb is made of resin impregnated paper honeycomb because it's easier to machine into curved surfaces than aluminum, (also cheaper and lighter than metal and won't corrode) Boeing used to make cabin floorboards out of impregnated paper honeycomb now it's all CFRP, which is why a 'standard' sized floorboard in a 787 20x80 inches x.50 thick can cost $14000.00 :shock:(no chubby chicks in spike heels).
The Hiteagues are the several thousand flush fasteners holding stuff like the skins to the frames, the airplane didn't use a large number of rivets in primary structure. Are the ducts flush NACA style and on the outer surface? if so,they were used for things like routing outside air to CSD cooling ducting, starter ducting or anti ice air evacuation. If you look on the lower wing to body fairings on a DC-9 or MD-80 you'll find a rectangular flush opening about half way between the leading edge of the wing and the MWW measuring about 2 x 4 inches, they make no sense until you see they are blast air brake cooling duct inlets routing cooling to the MLG brakes after take off and also perform wheel well fume ventilation.
The mounting flange is most likely aluminum and should be full of equally spaced holes for the mounting points, that'd be a good spot to locate your base feet with nice pieces of Oak or Walnut, with a bit of creativity, the other open holes could be used to mount brackets for a foot rail.

GOOGLE IMAGE HILOK aircraft fasteners for a lookie loo

Am I helping or making you crazy? I'll answer questions all day.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 14, 2012 10:47 pm 
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Naw, all good. Yeah the whole thing is screwed together with countersunk Phillips head screws.

If you look at the pictures, you will see there are two air inlet type fittings. I have not yet tracked them internally but definitely aerodynamic design.

The hanger hook was held on with 4 AN bolts and within witness marks of other shrouding.

So, all the perforated inner skins were for sound dampening? Why would they have two of a
Six segments in fiber honeycomb and all others aluminum?

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 2:41 am 
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1011's are great flying airplanes. They've always been my favorite, autoland puts a 75/76 to shame.
Chris...


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 6:22 am 
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I hate to throw water on this, but I don't believe that nose cowl came off of an L-1011. I worked on them for years at Delta, and it looks different. The anti-ice duct is coming out of the wrong spot and the shape of the forward pylon fairing "footprint" is wrong. It looks more like a Pratt & Whitney or GE style cowl from a 747 or DC-10. All the 1011s used Rolls Royce engines with two types of nose cowls, one for the -22 engines and a modified shorter cowl on the -535 engines. It's still pretty cool!!!!!

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 7:56 am 
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Rod,
You're right, as soon as I read 'phillips head screws' I knew it wasn't a Palmdale piggy, so it's most likely a 747 inlet as the DC-10 and L-piggo 11 both are responsible for infesting aviation with the dreaded TriWing screw, good for only two things, P.O.ing off a frustrated mechanic @ 0 dark 45 because it won't budge, or P.O.ing the baggy pants kid who's trying to steal you cars stereo because he never heard of a #3 tip.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 7:59 am 
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Guys,

This cowl had TWA placard on it so looks like that adds to your theory it came from a 747?


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 8:59 am 
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That's why I come to the brain. Thanks guys!

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 10:27 am 
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Yep, but Tweeny Weeny operated both types. Sorry about running you around the patch over the fastener confusion, but until you said 'Phillips Screws' I was still thinking Locoweed. In that case, the aluminum bulkheads were strictly for stiffening as the first JT-9D's engine cases tended to ovalize under full power and the huge inlet (for the time) had to stay round against all that air pressure (now, the 787 inlet is a two piece, inner and outer, molded plastics part) and JT-9 engine cowl panels didn't have hinges, they just sort of overlapped each other so cowling one up was an exercise in frustration if it was breezy or your assistant had never done it before.
The vent shown in picture #1 by the guys head is a TAI exhaust duct it kept the warm air flowing into the inlet lip ring without overpressurizing the nose cowling.
A quick reference is the mpn, if it starts 65, 65B, or 69 then -XXXXXX-XXX (or on really old 707 stuff even 5- it all pertains to the original drawing sheet velum size) then it's a Boeing part, odd number dash numbers are L/H parts and even dash numbers are R/H parts, a 65B-23689-103 would be a left hand part and a dash -104 would be a right hand installation, a -202 would be an improved or modified later part.

Still having fun??

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