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Classic Wings Magazine WWII Naval Aviation Research Pacific Luftwaffe Resource Center
When Hollywood Ruled The Skies - Volumes 1 through 4 by Bruce Oriss


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2012 4:37 pm 
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Anyone know who has replacement seals for a CP 625 Rivet Squeezer? Is a CP 450 the same piston seal/size?

While searching for info my son came across this 1949 Popular Mechanics edition with a 2 page ad from Grobans War Surplus in Chicago-
http://books.google.com/books?id=9NgDAA ... et&f=false
Page 250 is the ad, 3rd item down on the L/H column is a Model 625 rivet head used in a type of rivet machine.
Bottom L/H column of that page has a water pump made from the main coolant pump of a Packard Merlin being sold for $29. Just add an electric motor to pump out the basement.
Bottom L/H of page 251 has what is probably a Packard made Air Pump for British Merlins for $15.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2012 4:50 pm 
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51fixer wrote:
Anyone know who has replacement seals for a CP 625 Rivet Squeezer? Is a CP 450 the same piston seal/size?

While searching for info my son came across this 1949 Popular Mechanics edition with a 2 page ad from Grobans War Surplus in Chicago-
http://books.google.com/books?id=9NgDAA ... et&f=false
Page 250 is the ad, 3rd item down on the L/H column is a Model 625 rivet head used in a type of rivet machine.
Bottom L/H column of that page has a water pump made from the main coolant pump of a Packard Merlin being sold for $29. Just add an electric motor to pump out the basement.
Bottom L/H of page 251 has what is probably a Packard made Air Pump for British Merlins for $15.



CP, does it say 'Cleveland Pneumatics' or 'Chicago Pneumatics' anywhere? It's probably Chicago Pneumatics so I'd check with the local industrial pneumatic tools distributors, someone MIGHT have a seal kit sitting on a shelf with 4 inches of dust on it, or who can steer you to the manufacturers repair parts phone/E mail #.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2012 4:54 pm 
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51fixer wrote:
Anyone know who has replacement seals for a CP 625 Rivet Squeezer? Is a CP 450 the same piston seal/size?

While searching for info my son came across this 1949 Popular Mechanics edition with a 2 page ad from Grobans War Surplus in Chicago-
http://books.google.com/books?id=9NgDAA ... et&f=false
Page 250 is the ad, 3rd item down on the L/H column is a Model 625 rivet head used in a type of rivet machine.
Bottom L/H column of that page has a water pump made from the main coolant pump of a Packard Merlin being sold for $29. Just add an electric motor to pump out the basement.
Bottom L/H of page 251 has what is probably a Packard made Air Pump for British Merlins for $15.

An Article on Air Racing on pages 98, 99 and 100-
http://books.google.com/books?id=9NgDAA ... et&f=false

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2012 6:58 pm 
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How sad the first photo in the article is of Odegaard's plane.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2012 9:02 pm 
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Rich, try Bob Avery at Avery Tools. I know he rebuilds the smaller ones and might be a good source for your jumbo version.

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2012 1:37 am 
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Come on now you gotta show a picture of your 625.This is porrnn you know and we have to judge.can we get a peek?

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 1:40 pm 
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hang the expense wrote:
Come on now you gotta show a picture of your 625.This is porrnn you know and we have to judge.can we get a peek?

Now I gotta do some splaining to go with your photos-
CP 625 is an air powered ram. Manufactures would use it to power different tools involving rivet squeezes and presses.
The 625 is a double acting air powered actuator. There is a large chamber and piston which is the high power side and a small chamber and piston which returns the ram to its beginning position.
Parts in the solvent tank-
Image
The worst of the leather seals. Each backed up to each other creating a double lipped seal on a stationary 5/8" dia shaft. This separated the large and small chambers.
Image
Shaft the seals interface with with leather cup seal on the small piston-
Image
Large chamber leather cup seal (6 1/4" dia)-
Image
My replacement seal for the double leather seals, I found a National oil seal from upstairs that I use on the Merlin Tach Generator adapter. I reduced the height by taking 2 rounds off with a nibbler. I got an o-ring on the OD to fill the gap. Hope I don't need a 337 on this mod. :drink3: -
Image
Large piston and small piston/chamber assembled with the large seal-
Image
Air valve end-
Image
5/8" shaft threads into this body to port return air to small chamber-
Image
Assembled-
Image
Large Chamber Ram uses Rollers to transfer the power of the ram to push on a pivoting wedge that in turn pushes a shaft down to upset the rivet.
3 rollers are on the ram, 2 outers ride on a plate in the head of the 625 unit and the center roller rides on the wedge-
Image
Rollers have roller bearings and a large axel shaft-
Image
Wedge that pivots-
Image
Image
Large chamber housing-
Image
Assembled-
Image
In place on the C frame-
Image
Image
Image

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 5:49 pm 
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Now that is some bad kitty kitty.Thats some real good tool porrnn.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2012 5:55 pm 
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hang the expense wrote:
Now that is some bad kitty kitty.Thats some real good tool porrnn.

Don't get your fingers caught :shock:
6 tons of force from 120 psi.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 20, 2012 1:46 am 
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I have managed in all these years never to catch a finger in one of mine.I have a couple of 450s(1 hot and 1 cold ) and a nifty little shop built riveter that came out of the clover field douglas plant with zephyr goose neck dies.Guess which is my favorite?Good luck on the rebuild and I'm glad you saved it from going to scrap.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 8:57 am 
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As posted in the Bald Eagle Aviation Thread-
Some progress from last week-
Skin and Stringers being riveted-
Image
Image
To reduce marring and scratches during riveting I covered the surface with tape-
Image
Results-
Image
Image

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 1:57 pm 
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'It's a man sized 'C' squeeze'. Great idea to protect the surface, you could also use white sign painters tape, Boeing does.
Bonus points for leaving the manufactured heads exposed!!!! Since a great deal of forming the shop head and swelling the shank into the hole involves heating the rivet by compressing it, if you use tape ON the manufactured head, you'll get pattern transfer from the tape and wind up with 'Plaid' or checkerboarded heads which not only looks like :butthead: but also weakens the rivet.
Happy to see you have that big bruiser back up and productive-

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 2:14 pm 
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We used to use 3M's 685 Riveter Tape when we were loading assembiles that had more than a couple of rivets. It's see thru and held them in place pretty well and no residue when peeled off. It's not cheap... $9.50 a roll or so, but it can pay for itself in a hurry if you are setting a lot of rivets at a time.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 3:20 pm 
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Cvairwerks wrote:
We used to use 3M's 685 Riveter Tape when we were loading assembiles that had more than a couple of rivets. It's see thru and held them in place pretty well and no residue when peeled off. It's not cheap... $9.50 a roll or so, but it can pay for itself in a hurry if you are setting a lot of rivets at a time.


Are you talking about the plastic tape with the green borders? If yes, extreme care is advised when doing flush rivets by hand as the tape borders being struck by the flush die wil cut the clad leaving 'railroad tracking' on the surface.
Sign painters tape is very tough paper with a gummed side like extra sticky POST-IT's. It's almost translucent and comes right up with no residue

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 9:18 pm 
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Cvairwerks wrote:
We used to use 3M's 685 Riveter Tape when we were loading assembiles that had more than a couple of rivets. It's see thru and held them in place pretty well and no residue when peeled off. It's not cheap... $9.50 a roll or so, but it can pay for itself in a hurry if you are setting a lot of rivets at a time.

Obviously I didn't have that although I wished I did.

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